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Maputo
Located near the very southern tip of the country, Maputo was once renowned as a beautiful city and rated by world travellers alongside Cape Town and Rio. But after almost 20 years of war and deprivation the capital is very rundown today, with crumbling buildings and dirty streets. Nevertheless, it's still an interesting place, with a very lively atmosphere. And the place slowly but surely improves. Old-timers say Maputo is already regaining some of its old charm.

The oldest historic site is the fort, where you can patrol the ramparts, look at the old cannons or just sit and rest in the grassy courtyard. A must-see is the train station, designed and built in the early 1900s by the same Eiffel who gave us the famous tower. Recently renovated, it looks more like a palace, with polished wood and marble decorations, topped by a gigantic copper dome.

Other highlights include the Botanic Gardens; the National Art Museum, which has a fine collection of Mozambique's best contemporary artists; and the lively Municipal Market, where fruit, vegetables, spices and basketwork are sold.

Beira
Beira, the second largest city in Mozambique, is a major port and rail terminus. Its compact central area and old Mediterranean-style buildings give the place some faded glamour. The heart of the city is the Praça (main square), which is surrounded by shops, markets and offices. The cathedral, just south-east of the centre, is looking a bit worse for wear these days but is definitely worth a stop. The bustling market at Tchunga Moyo (brave heart) is full of imported goods, contraband and some unsavoury characters, so travel light and walk carefully.

The old part of the port is chock-a-block with wrecked vessels. Many people head for the fine sands and fairly clean waters at Praia de Macuti. There's an old shipwreck washed up on the shore near the red and white lighthouse at the northern end of the beach.

Beira is 880km (550mi) north of Maputo, accessible by air (from Maputo and some other cities in Mozambique and Zimbabwe) and train a few times a week. The bus leaves more often but takes two days from Maputo.

Pemba
Pemba is a coastal town at the mouth of a huge bay. It boasts some interesting buildings (especially in Baixa - the old town) and a lively atmosphere. Most visitors come for the beaches - particularly Wimbi Beach (sometimes spelt Wimbe) - and the coral reefs. Wimbi is about 5km (3mi) east of town. The reef is so close you can swim out to it. A fledgling tourist industry is already transforming the place with bars, restaurants, diving, snorkelling, boating, fishing, etc. The Makonde workshop on the road between town and the beach has good wooden carvings for sale at even better prices (but stay away from the ivory). Bus or hired car is the way to get there, though you can get a dhow by asking around the port.

Mozambique Island
Mozambique Island (Ilha de Moçambique - commonly called 'Ilha') is a small chunk of land anchored about 3km (2mi) off the mainland (linked by bridge). Once the capital of Portugal's East African colony, the island is now known for its array of mosques and churches and its Hindu temple. Most of the sites are on the northern half, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The number one attraction is the Palace and Chapel of São Paulo - the former governor's residence - dating from the 1700s. This large building overlooks a large square inlaid with patterned stones, and the straits on the west side of the island. These days it's a museum, containing furniture and ornaments from Portugal, Arabia, India and China. Given the strife of the past 20-odd years, it's in remarkably good shape. Nearby is the Museum of Sacred Art, containing religious ornaments, paintings and carvings.

At the northern end of the island is the Fort of São Sebastião, also in surprisingly good condition. Right nearby is the Chapel of Nossa Senhora de Baluarte, reported to be the oldest building in the southern hemisphere. Ilha can be reached by direct bus from Nampula on the mainland. Other options include hired car and boat.

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Off the Beaten Track
Bazaruto Archipelago (Marine National Park)
Located about 10km (6mi) off the coast, the Archipelago is one of the most beautiful places on the continent, complete with azure waters, sandy beaches, palm trees, pristine coral reefs, plus tropical fish to goggle at and big game fish to catch. The whole area between the mainland and the 150 fathom mark is now protected as a world-class conservation area. If you stay at one of the posh lodges, transfer by speedboat is available for around US$100 return. Rather cheaper are dhows, which can be got at Vilankulo on the mainland.

Tofu & Barra Beaches
The long, beautiful beaches of Tofu and Barra were legendary years ago and are fast regaining their former fame. Tofu is more accessible and more developed, with a hotel and holiday cottages. Barra is harder to reach but quieter, with a better setting: clean sand dunes with surf on one side and mangroves and palm groves on the other, where parrots and monkeys do their tropical stuff. Once South African fishermen stop driving along the beach in ugly 4WDs, it will be perfect. The beaches are accessible by car (though a 4WD really does come in handy for the last few kilometres of sandy road) and chapas, which go all the way to Tofu but stop 4km (2mi) short at Barra village school, from where you can get a guide to show you the way to Barra Beach.

Lago de Cahora Bassa
About 500km (310mi) north-west of the coast, the Zambezi River is dammed by the Barragem de Cahora Bassa. It was built in the 1970s, one of the largest civil engineering projects in Africa. Today, it is still a grand sight. Set in stunning scenery at the head of a magnificent gorge, the dam has created Lago de Cahora Bassa, a vast lake 270km (170mi) long, stretching back to the confluence of the Zambezi and the Luangwa Rivers on the border with Zambia.

Although it's become a white elephant - operating far below capacity due to damage suffered during the civil war - it's developing into a tourist attraction. So far, the amenities are minimal, and about the only thing you can do here (besides take in the magnificent views) is take a tour of the dam (with the obligatory trip to the turbine room). You can get there by car, but there's also a bus that runs between Songo, the dam's service town, and Tete, the nearest large town, which is 150km (95mi) to the south-east down the Zambezi River. Before visiting, however, you'll need permission to visit, obtainable in Tete. There are serviceable rooms available in Songo.